The Runt of the Litter
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 20 votes
Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Chris Deuto |
Page Views: | 2,912 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | Chris Deuto on Mar 13, 2017 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful
Details
Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Description
The Runt of the Litter ascends the seam in the main part of the roof left of Mighty Dog. Easy slab climbing brings you to a good rest. From here, you punch out the middle of the intimidating roof following a seam with just barely enough holds in it. Precise movement throughout the seam spits you right into the crux of Mighty Dog. Runt is a little shorter than Mighty Dog but much harder, and it has much more sustained, technical, roof climbing. I felt like the movement of this climb was super classic, but I only gave it 3 stars due to the climb being a little dirty (it is brand new as of now, it will clean up with traffic) and the glue reinforcement on Mighty Dog. All in all, it is a really unique climb with thoughtful and precise movement throughout. The Runt of The Litter was bolted by Jay Samuelson and TJ Sanford.
Protection
9 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. You need to hang draws on the start of Runt, but the Mighty Dog part of the climb is permadrawed. Unless you are on a redpoint burn, ii is recommended to not clip the anchors over the lip to eliminate unwanted drag. That said, on redpoint, clip the anchors!
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