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Routes in Seal Smasher Wall

If I Had a Hammer (free) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Kevin Keith, Sal Clarizio, Todd Burke 1996
Page Views: 165 total, 19/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Mar 9, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

Start from ledge which can be easily accessed from the right side of the crag, or start at the base of the rock and climb a short 5.7 pitch to the ledge. Build a belay below the little prickly-pear. Follow vertical cracks to the left side of the huge roof, below a chimney. Traverse right under the wave/beak roof (crux) to the sloping ledge on the other side, and belay (#2-#3 c4s). Squeeze up the short but clean OW pitch to big ledge, and either scramble off right back down to the bottom, or walk left around the corner and finish on the obvious left-slanting crack to the top (recommended) . They call this pitch 10a I think, but that's a blatant sandbag for sure .

Location

The obvious beak/like roof , which is visible from the granite basin parking lot .

Protection

Single rack to #4, and some brass

Photos

GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
Hey Kevin, thanks for the history! That iron-cross crux is certainly a right shoulder buster! And Derek has one of those pitons (it came out when he clipped it with a draw on our first burn)
You'll have to let me know of any other lines in the Basin to play on until the Mountain opens.
Also, we climbed this short but sweet finger/layback crack to the climbers right of Seal Smasher. Felt mid-5.11. Is there a name for that one?
By the way congrats on the dells book, I grabbed a copy today, it looks awesome,and thank you !
Looking forward to bumping into you one of these days. Climb safe

Gabe Mar 28, 2017
Nicely done Gabe!

I originally did this route in 1996 or 97 with Sal Clarizio and Todd Burke. I went back to try and get it clean with Bill Garrett a year later and dislocated my shoulder on the traverse. At that time we climbed it a little differently. Pitch one 5.8 climbing from the ground to the ledge and up to the left side of the roof, nice spot for a hanging belay. The second pitch was the traverse. The crack gets a little seepy after a rain. The third pitch was rated 5.9. This is the top section of Clubber by Tom Cecil. I thought it was more difficult than 5.9. Jim Erdman added a bonus section by climbing a short finger crack at the very top of the formation. I think it was 5.9-10. I named the route "If I Had a Hammer" because I originally protected it with a baby angle and a knife blade that were hand placed. Great line, glad you made it. KK Mar 20, 2017