PRINT: Rock Climb Heirloom, Sedona Area

Heirloom

5.10, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 37 votes
FA: Derek Field & Garth Schultz (March 2017) --- ground-up
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Twin Butte > W Twin Butte > Genetic Wall

Description

The bottom half is right out of the Creek with clean jams and heroic roof pulls. The top half throws a bit of Sedona at ya, and stays interesting till the end.

Start at the base of the obvious clean-cut corner. Jam your way up the corner and launch over a set of cubic roofs. Continue up the crack as it flares and passes through a variety of sizes, bringing you to a nice ledge with a two-bolt chain anchor.

Location

Genetic Wall is divided by gullies into three parts. On the middle formation, Heirloom is the very obvious splitter handcrack in a clean right-facing corner.

Protection

Double rack to 3" + one 4" cam

+ extra 2-3" as desired (optional)

One 60m rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jason Jackson cleaning up the splitter heirloom

Giselle Field rocks the technicolor splits at the first roof.

When in doubt, stem it out!

Ciara on lead after the roof

Heirloom topo

Bottom half of Heirloom showcased in vertical pano

Notice the face in the rock?

Tyler Collins on the sharp end.

really fun route!

Giselle leads through the thin hands section.

Garth on the upper half of the route.

Garth pulls into the final fist crack to finish off the ground-up FA.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dave Spies
Sedona, AZ

Super fun. Felt well protected with double .4-3 and a single 4. 85' rap. No need to do the step across... just climb straight up to the fist/ hand crack on a few face features.

Lots of shade for a quick outing on summer mornings, or lots of sun for a nice winter afternoon. May 20, 2017

Giselle F
Sedona

5.10

For newer 5.10 trad leaders like me, I recommend taking the optional pieces listed in the pro. Classic route! Feb 12, 2018

Ciara Moon
Moab, UT

5.10

I love this route! There’s a little bit of everything and for a newer climber like my self it’s super exciting! Thanks Derek and Garth! Jan 6, 2021

Tyler Collins
Phoenix, AZ

5.10

Fantastic line. Throws a bit of everything at you. I didn't find a placement for the 4, but did use 3x #1, 4x #2, and 3x #3 plus pretty much a double rack of everything else. Was in the shade until 1230.

EDIT: After taking another burn on this I'd adjust gear beta to a double rack with one or two extra #2's. Still didn't find anywhere for the #4. May 16, 2021

Sam Cook
phoenix

This route is stellar. I'm surprised I don't see more people on it with how short the approach is.

My gear beta is
1 c3 .1
1 c4 .4
2 c4 .5
2 c4 .75
2 c4 #1
3 c4 #2
2 c4 #3
1 #4

Very well stitched up. Sep 25, 2021

geoffrey.ris

Sick route. Left anchor bolt is a bit loose, bring a wrench to tighten it up. I did not have one - a #4 can be used in a bomber placement up and to the right to back it up. 3 days ago