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Routes in Upper Hackberry

Red Alert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Type: Trad, Aid, 65 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman & Roy Suggett
Page Views: 201 total, 21/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Mar 5, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Climb: Code Sentry Tower in the upper end of Hackberry Canyon

Route: Follow the Red Alert line on the south side of the Code Sentry

A rather picturesque guardian of our current freedoms and the upper reaches of Hackberry Canyon. This sentry stands alone to inspire those who venture down this remote and beautiful drainage. The line is free for the first half but turns to fixed anchors and aid for the last portion. The transition between these two styles will be your crux, albeit relatively safe.

The line is the obvious weakness on the south side of the monolith. It starts on easy blocks which lead to a vertical hand crack. Run up this to a horizontal and cut right. Place shallow gear here prior to an awkward move on to a soft shoulder. Gain good footing and clip a pin (loose...bring a #2 angle to improve). Step onto the face left and then straight up the face past the drilled pin and two bolts. The exit will need a large stopper or a .5/.75 BD cam. This is not for those who require rock solid metamorphic climbing. Red Alert will expect an experienced hacker to sign the register on the summit.

Location

The Code Sentry Tower is at the upper reaches of Hackberry Canyon. From the entrance sign of Kodachrome Basin State Park travel east on the Cottonwood Road for about 4.7 miles. On your right is an obscure double track (BLM 422) which leads south and west for about 1.5 miles to an obvious turn-about just above the wash/canyon. Park here and start your 20 minute approach. The Code Sentry Tower is on the right bank as you descend and can not be missed.

Protection

Active: BD .5 X 1, .75 X 1, #1 X 2, #2 X 2, #3 X 3, & #4s X 2.

Passive: Medium to large nuts.

Fixed: One drilled pin, two bolts.

Misc.: Three or four QDs and a few runners.

Anchor: Two bolts with shuts.

Rope: 60 m

Photos

Roy Suggett  
 
Get a GSENM map at the visitor's center in Cannonville to better find BLM Rd. 422. Just going hiking...skip the climbing chat. Mar 6, 2017