Type: Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Wolfe/Vasquez
Page Views: 494 total · 19/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Mar 4, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

Step off a pedestal to the left of "Zig Zag", clip a bolt & make a funky move to gain the face above. Continue up a fun face to 1st set of anchors. (5.9, 60 feet)

Lower here, or continue up on a face with a small roof and higher anchors. Break up the pitches or bring 14 draws & lower off Mussys. (5.9, 55 feet 115' total).

2 rappels or 70 meter rope REQUIRED from upper anchor.

Location

Just left of Zig Zag, below & left the Diamond Face proper

Protection

Pitch 1: 7 bolts, Mussy Hooks
Pitch 2: 6 bolts, Mussy Hooks

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9 PG13
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9 PG13
okay, so i look at a route like this and it has: solid rock (better than any of the other routes in the area), fun moves, and nice bolting and it's only 2 stars? why, it's way better than that! i'd say it's easy for 5.9, but a fall before clipping the 2nd bolt would not be good. would be interesting to lead this on gear. edit 11/23/18 - did the extension/2nd pitch, not as good (rock quality/climbing) as the bottom imho. skipped 2nd to last bolt (could reach last bolt just by standing up on huge foothold). Nov 4, 2017
Sunny Day  
 
I would call this a slab meets slopey kind of route. Arguably easier than 5.9 if you climb the staircase available to you to the left of the start of the climb. Enjoyable route! Nov 29, 2017
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
  5.9
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Added a 6-bolt extension to this route, still around 5.9. 14 draws w/maybe 1 longer for 1st anchor bolt. A 70 meter/ rope required to lower from the top pitch. Enjoy! Dec 28, 2017
BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
Love this new route. Lower section felt 5.8, but the upper section felt more like 10a--that is, we did the full length version. There's a reachy clip before the overlap on the second section. Definitely have a 70 meter rope, and knot the end. Jan 17, 2018