Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Erik Wolfe/Tom Grundy/Weston Lippia
Page Views: 402 total · 15/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Mar 3, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! High water release May 13, 2019!!! Details

Description

Pitch 1 (65' - 5.10b/c): Tricky rounded holds on a steep wall lead to a rest at "The Duck Bill", then past diminishing holds to the arete. The steepness eases to a mantle below the anchors.

Pitch 2 (75'- 5.11a): Easy terrain for 45 feet brings one to a steep headwall. Step onto the face, clip the crux bolt and do some fancy dancing to surmount the bulge (height dependent). Traverse right and finish up on a fun and exposed arete.

There is an amazing ledge on the arete at the top (just below the second pitch anchors), so I put a bolt in to use the anchors as a re-direct for belaying the second up. Bring a long sling or daisy if you want to chill on the ledge.

Edit: I should also mention that I get cell-phone reception from the ledge on the second pitch. Pretty rare for the gorge.

Location

After the river crossing, continue up & past the long moderates. At the split inthe trail, head upthe slope and look for stone steps switching back left. Follow ramp and terracing to the base of the climb.

Protection

Pitch 1: 7 bolts, Mussy's
Pitch 2: 10 bolts, Mussy's

Photos