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Routes in Diamondback Area

Chewey the Beaver S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chewey's Chimney TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diamond in the Tuff S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dusk 'til Dawn S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Edge Zeppelin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finked S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Moon Fever S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I Can't Even Right Now TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Look Out Below S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phylanthropy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shadow Plan S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Erik Wolfe/Tom Grundy/Weston Lippia
Page Views: 188 total, 21/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Mar 3, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Pitch 1 (65' - 5.10c): Tricky rounded holds on a steep wall lead to a rest at "The Duck Bill", then past diminishing holds to the arete. The steepness eases to a mantle below the anchors.

Pitch 2 (75'- 5.11a): Easy terrain for 45 feet brings one to a steep headwall. Step onto the face, clip the crux bolt and do some fancy dancing to surmount the bulge (height dependent). Traverse right and finish up on a fun and exposed arete.

There is an amazing ledge on the arete at the top (just below the second pitch anchors), so I put a bolt in to use the anchors as a re-direct for belaying the second up. Bring a long sling or daisy if you want to chill on the ledge.

Edit: I should also mention that I get cell-phone reception from the ledge on the second pitch. Pretty rare for the gorge.

Location

After the river crossing, pass the big boulder then cut back left on a trail heading for the toe of a buttress just upstream from the crossing. At the toe, switch back right and look for stone steps, ramp and terracing taking you back left and to the base of the climb.

Protection

Pitch 1: 7 bolts, Mussy's
Pitch 2: 10 bolts, Mussy's
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
Thanks for the feed-back - I will probably try and re-configure the anchor set-up so an 80-meter rope will reach the ground while leading. Apr 25, 2017
Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
  5.11a
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
  5.11a
This route is duplicated in the Diamond Face section, so, I am duplicating my comments.

We did the 2 pitches in one go with an 80m rope. However, on lowering to the ground, I ended up 2-3m short. My belayer tied in, cleaned the pitch(es) and lowered all the way to the ground. It's a rope stretcher with an 80m rope. The rope drag was ok when doing as 1 pitch, but I did skip a few very easy to skip bolts on second pitch.
P1: 10c, slopey holds
P2: 11a, 1 move wonder, climbing was pleasant. Apr 24, 2017