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Routes in Chalten Massif

East Face Glacier - Cerro Eléctrico T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Afannassief T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Austríaca T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brenner-Moschioni to Comesana-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cara Este - Mojón Rojo T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Chiaro di Luna (Claro de Luna) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Comesaña-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frader Pisafe, aka Salvaterra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Luna de Miel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last Gringos Standing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Supercanaleta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI4 M5-6 PG13
Voie Des Benitiers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1
Whillans-Cochrane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI3 M4
Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Alberto Maria De Agostini 1932
Page Views: 202 total, 23/month
Shared By: Jade Ajani on Mar 3, 2017
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

A fun easy glacier route. A good option if the weather and conditions are not great for technical climbing on the bigger peaks.

The route starts by following the marked trail towards Piedra Del Fraile (private land). At the point where the trail crosses the major creek flowing from the glacier on Cerro Electrico, climbers will head left off the trail following the course of the drainage until reaching cliffs. Head up the gully of least resistance that leads to the plateau above. Once you gain the obvious plateau above the steep gully, traverse the plateau by heading southwest and look for a relatively easy chute to access the base of the glacier above. Once here, the route opens up and on a clear day when the summit is visible, it should be easy to plot a route up the glacier, staying primarily climbers' left before crossing the glacier to the summit ridge. It's recommended that you stay in the snowfields between the heavily crevassed right side of the glacier and the ridge on the left. There is a final short 4th class scramble to the chossy summit.

Location

Cerro Eléctrico, the most northeasterly peak in the Fitz Roy ridge.

Protection

Pickets, rope and general glacier travel and crevasse rescue kit.

Photos

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