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Routes in Avalanche Lake/Pass

Adirondike T WI3+
Avalanche Mountain Gully WI4-
Matrix, The T WI5+
Trap Dike, The WI2 Easy Snow
Type: Trad, Ice, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Don Mellor & Bill Simes about 1980
Page Views: 120 total, 12/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Mar 1, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

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I had a fun time this with Matt Horner on this several years ago. His recent accident reminded me, and I was surprised the climb wasn't in mtnproject yet.

Adirondike is the striking, yellow-ice "gulley" that forms in the left-facing corner system left of the "Matrix Area" and Trap Dike.

Matt, in his usual style, ran the thing out in one long pitch. Most folk would probably belay on the left. [ Pre-Irene there were some birches about 50-75(?) ft up on the left.] I think we were using a 70m and even at that I had to simul-climb up the first 25 ft (maybe 50ft?? see COMMENTs) for Matt to top-out. (shush...don't tell Ed )

We rapped with one rope, at least 2 raps.

[Grade II / III for the approach]


Coming in from ADK-Lodge & March Dam, it's on the left (south, east ??) side of Avalanche Lake before reaching the Matrix-area, and before Trap Dike.


Usual stuff


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Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Thanks for the Beta Ben! I climbed this several years ago, and did remember I needed to simul-climb for Matt to top out (through a sort of a narrowing "V" at the top) but had forgotten how far....maybe more like 50 ft than 25?

Also, it's possible that Irene may have "blown out" more of the base of the climb, so today (maybe?) the bottom is lower down? !~ Mar 2, 2017
It is well over 70m from the base of the ice to the trees. In early February 2017, there was a big icicle spilling off the right roof just at 60m, and we rapped off it with no issues (other than the usual palpitations about how well it was bonded at the base). Mar 1, 2017