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Born Again Christian
5.8,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 7
votes
FA: Loren Wood, Bill Hebb in 2004
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Hideout
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit
Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at
muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
Climb over a chockstone and head up into the chimney. There is a tighter chimney section in deep that you can go through or a wider section farther out.
Location
This route is around the corner from Boltergeist to the right.
Protection
Hand sized pieces and ideally some larger cams as well.
Bolt anchor at the top on the left after you exit the chimney.
South Bend
It may be possible to climb the outer chimney, but near as i can tell the only available pro is in the squeeze, so if you lead it, plan to squeeze it. A #5 and #6 are both very welcome; the #5 first and the #6 later. I used nothing smaller than a single #2 down low. The top is lichen and fungus to the chains, and the chains will swing you out left, out of the squeeze. Rack on a torso sling; keep your ass free for the thrutch. Dec 3, 2022