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Routes in Last Wall

Game Face T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Gizmosis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hurt Locker, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Main Vein T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Natural Selection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sidewalk Prophets T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretch Arm Strong T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Tim's Reach Around T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yosemite Sam T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: David Petree, Jon Regelbrugge
Page Views: 136 total, 14/month
Shared By: Neil Rankin on Feb 28, 2017
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This route is fantastic but is perhaps best attempted by the Moore's Wall cognoscenti. The gear is not sparse at the crux, but it is shallow and technical, and you'll need to run it a bit afterwards on pumpy climbing. I'd call it R because there is potential for a huge ripper after the crux, but it's more about keeping your wig on than difficult climbing at that point.

Gizmosis is a pretty face that has two bolts fairly close together starting at about twenty feet, just above a foot ledge. Begin down and right of the foot ledge and carefully scramble up to it. Very small brass protects clipping the first bolt.

From here, crimp through the two bolts and up to a discontinuous vertical crack splitting the featured face. Get gear where you can and stay above or even slightly right of the crack as it disappears. The crux is here, and it's all about getting the pro well enough to proceed through the pumpy climbing. Pulling out of the crux one can continue straight through or ape out left to a juggy ledge on steeper ground.

If you go left there is no gear until you can get your feet established on the ledge and get the excellent overhead pro in a horizontal. From here go up to the final bulge, and then pull over and mantle. A classic finish. After topping out there is no fixed anchor and no good way to lower without a bunch of webbing. I recommend bringing your partner up by slinging a tree about 15 feet back and extending your belay to the lip to avoid rope drag.

Location

The ground is flat beneath the start and is a comfortable place to hang out. There is a wide dihedral just to the right of the start.

Protection

Gizmosis' name is a reference to the small cams (gizmos) needed to protect the crux. Take nuts, brass, and cams to a #2 friend.

Photos

Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11+ R
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11+ R
Wear your brown underwear for the finish on this one. That way no one will know... Feb 28, 2017
sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
 
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
 
rad route! Feb 28, 2017