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Acromegaly

5.9, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
FA: Derek Field (Jan 2017)
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Twin Butte > W Twin Butte > Genetic Wall

Description

Stock up on 5" cams to defeat this mutant on the Genetic Wall. It's a staircase offwidth perched nicely above Sedona-ville. Sun-drenched from mid-morning onward.

After wading up from the tree through 4th-class choss, the route starts with a couple bomber fist jams to a stance, then it opens to 5-6" and stays that way until the chains. Solid arm-barring supplemented by oodles of suspect face holds on the left wall... good ol blue-collar fun! Peer into the crack periodically and notice that it extends exceptionally deep into the rock formation, like some kind of eerie corridor. The pitch ends at a two-bolt chain anchor below an ugly roof. I thought the route would continue through the roof but severe choss gets the final word on that.

Location

This striking wide crack is found in the drainage just below Devils Thumb, on the far southern end of Genetic Wall. It starts at a large tree on the main ledge system halfway up the wall. From the two sport routes (Genetic Continuity and Genetic Drift), scramble to the right around the corner, up the gully a short ways until you see this thing. Very obvious wide crack.

Good to belay from the big tree because there's about 15-20 feet of 4th-class choss-tossing to get into the crack itself.

Protection

1-2x #4
3-4x #5
1x #6
(new BD sizes)

YMMV: You could possibly get up this with fewer cams but this is what I recommend. The nature of the crack makes it somewhat tricky to bump cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Acromegaly viewed from the gully below Devils Thumb.
[Hide Photo] Acromegaly viewed from the gully below Devils Thumb.
Looking up Acromegaly from the approach gully. Anchors were installed where they are because the upper varnished splitter is deceptively sketchy.
[Hide Photo] Looking up Acromegaly from the approach gully. Anchors were installed where they are because the upper varnished splitter is deceptively sketchy.
Acromegaly above Sedona.
[Hide Photo] Acromegaly above Sedona.