All Locations > International > Oceania > New Zealand > North Island > Coromandel > Castle Rock > Kookmeyers
Sleeping boy catches no fish (direct)
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Kookmeyers
|Links Effect, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sleeping boy catches no fish (direct) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||P1 - Nick Monteith, P2 - Cliff Ellery, Jess Dobson, Rachael Mayne, P3 - Robby McBirney & Len Gillman|
|Page Views:||29 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||Cameron Fraser on Feb 25, 2017|
DescriptionShares the same first pitch with "Lynx effect", but the 2nd and 3rd pitches finish directly up the cliff instead of traversing right.
P1(18) - 50m
A fantastic slab line that is also the first pitch of "Lynx effect". Quite technical for the grade with less than positive slopey holds, so you have to rely on your footwork. Crux is getting to the first bolt (a little harder than 5.10a/18 in my opinion). Wonderful views and nice exposure with the valley dropping off below you. Well bolted around the hard moves, but gets quite run out in the middle when you cross some easier ground. Not a pitch to lead if you are not solid at the grade. Top out at a large ledge with bushes for a relaxed belay.
P2(21) - 15m
A short but steep pitch. Head left up blocky ground. After a couple of bolts power through the overhangs in uncharacteristically steep climbing for Castle rock. Belay on ledge above.
P3(16) - 25m
Finish up easy face/arete with great holds, great exposure and slightly less than vertical climbing.
Walk off onto the summit. From here there are walking tracks to get down.