Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Topaze

La Zyrconia cubique WI5 R
Opale WI5
Topaze WI4
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Ice, Alpine, 492 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Pierre-Édouard Gagnon et Paul Laperrière (01\25\77)
Page Views: 163 total · 8/month
Shared By: Cath Boivin on Feb 25, 2017
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Topaze est LA voie classique de la région touristique de la Mauricie. Bien visible de la route 155, majestueuse, elle est située de l'autre côté de la rivière Saint-Maurice.
________________________________________________________

Topaze is THE classical route of Mauricie. You can see it well from the road, the other side of the Saint-Maurice river.

Location

La voie est située dans le village de Grande-Anse. On peut l'admirer de la route, au niveau de la pesé pour camion et vis à vis un terrain vague.
Il important de prendre en note les nouvelles directives de stationnement. Vu que la vitesse permise sur la route 155 est à 90km/h, les grimpeurs se stationnant sur l'accotement courent un risque de contravention. Il a été vérifiée avec les autorités locales que deux voitures peuvent se stationner côte à côte à l'entrée de la pesée sans couper le chemin pour l'entrée des camions.
__________________________________________________________________________________

This route is located in Grande-Anse village. It is easily seen from the road, by a vacant lot, on the other side of the river.
Climbers can park at the truck weight station (without blocking trucks entrance). Parking anywhere else on the side of the road and you will probably find a ticket on your windshield at the end of the day (no parking in Quebec on the side of the road when the speed limit is 70km/h or more.)

Protection

La glace y est généralement de bonne qualité.
Il y a une ligne de rappel 10-15m a la gauche de la voie. Rendu en haut de la voie, regardez en haut a gauche et suivez la main courante (corde statique noire) afin d’accéder au premier relais. Deux rappels de 50m sont suivi d'un de 25m. Vraiment plus simple que de redescendre sur des lunules et incommoder d'autres grimpeurs au bas de la voie.
__________________________________________________________________________

Standard ice rack.

There is a BOLTED rap route for Topaze. It is located 10-15m to climber's LEFT of the top of the route. From the top, look left, you will see a fixed rope that you can clip into and follow to the top-most rap station. There are several bolts there, and a black static rope anchor with quick-links. The first rap is about 50m straight down over a rock overhang. Past the over-hang, you will see a cedar tree below, and a 4-bolt anchor adjacent to it (impossible to miss). The second rap is straight down, about 50m, over another overhang to a bolted chain anchor on an uncomfortable stance (also impossible to miss). The third and final rap is 25m.

Please do not rap down the route if there are climbers below. Late season, you would have to work really hard to excavate far enough into the ice for V-threads you can trust... the bolted rap route is really the best way down.

Photos

Matt D
Jay, NY
 
Matt D   Jay, NY
 
There is a BOLTED rap route for Topaze. It is located 10-15m to climber's LEFT of the top of the route. From the top, look left, you will see a fixed rope that you can clip into and follow to the top-most rap station. There are several bolts there, and a black static rope anchor with quick-links. The first rap is about 50m straight down over a rock overhang. Past the over-hang, you will see a cedar tree below, and a 4-bolt anchor adjacent to it (impossible to miss). The second rap is straight down, about 50m, over another overhang to a bolted chain anchor on an uncomfortable stance (also impossible to miss). The third and final rap is 25m.

Please do not rap down the route if there are climbers below. Late season, you would have to work really hard to excavate far enough into the ice for V-threads you can trust... the bolted rap route is really the best way down. Note that the Lapierre/Gagnon Quebec Ice guidebook describes rappelling 50m climber's right on trees. The bolted rap route on climber's left is far better, and easier.

Have fun! Mar 12, 2018
Matt D
Jay, NY
 
Matt D   Jay, NY
 
The river crossing was still good Mar 9, 2018. Driving up, you'll see sections of open water, and sections that snowmobiles have driven on - the ice thickness is variable!. We used snowshoes and had no problem. Remember the normal precautions for water crossings on potentially thin ice: undo the buckles on your pack so you can jettison it, loosen the straps on your snowshoes so you have some chance of kicking them off (the current is strong and being pulled under the ice by your shoes is the biggest threat), carry an ice tool in your hand to help anchor yourself, and if you're at all uncertain - rope up with a partner. Mar 12, 2018

More About Topaze

Printer-Friendly