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Topaze
WI4
Avg: 3.8 from 14
votes
| Type: | Ice, 492 ft (149 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Pierre-Édouard Gagnon et Paul Laperrière (01\25\77) |
| Page Views: | 2,519 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Cath Boivin on Feb 25, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
Description
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Topaze is THE classical route of Mauricie. You can see it well from the road, the other side of the Saint-Maurice river.
Location
Il important de prendre en note les nouvelles directives de stationnement. Vu que la vitesse permise sur la route 155 est à 90km/h, les grimpeurs se stationnant sur l'accotement courent un risque de contravention. Il a été vérifiée avec les autorités locales que deux voitures peuvent se stationner côte à côte à l'entrée de la pesée sans couper le chemin pour l'entrée des camions.
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This route is located in Grande-Anse village. It is easily seen from the road, by a vacant lot, on the other side of the river.
Climbers can park at the truck weight station (without blocking trucks entrance). Parking anywhere else on the side of the road and you will probably find a ticket on your windshield at the end of the day (no parking in Quebec on the side of the road when the speed limit is 70km/h or more.)
Protection
La glace y est généralement de bonne qualité.
Il y a une ligne de rappel 10-15m a la gauche de la voie. Rendu en haut de la voie, regardez en haut a gauche et suivez la main courante (corde statique noire) afin d’accéder au premier relais. Deux rappels de 50m sont suivi d'un de 25m ou deux rappels avec des 70m. Vraiment plus simple que de redescendre sur des lunules et incommoder d'autres grimpeurs au bas de la voie.
Standard ice rack.
There is a BOLTED rap route for Topaze. It is located 10-15m to climber's LEFT of the top of the route. From the top, look left, you will see a fixed rope that you can clip into and follow to the top-most rap station. There are several bolts there, and a black static rope anchor with quick-links. The first rap is about 50m straight down over a rock overhang. Past the over-hang, you will see a cedar tree below, and a 4-bolt anchor adjacent to it (impossible to miss). The second rap is straight down, about 50m, over another overhang to a bolted chain anchor on an uncomfortable stance (also impossible to miss). The third and final rap is 25m. You can do 2 raps with 70m ropes.
Please do not rap down the route if there are climbers below. Late season, you would have to work really hard to excavate far enough into the ice for V-threads you can trust... the bolted rap route is really the best way down.
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