All Locations > International > North America > Canada > Ontario > Orient Bay Ice an… > 3. Ice Palace
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, 210 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Dave Rone, Aric Fishman. Feb 2017|
|Page Views:||113 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Dave Rone on Feb 25, 2017|
DescriptionP1: M7, 40m. Climb to the top of the ice, clip the fixed knifeblade (long runner to reduce rope drag). Traverse about 20' right to flakes and cracks, cranking on pick-bending horizontal tools while stepping from edge to edge. Then climb thin face and maybe some ice to a squeeze chimney, then a nice ledge and bolted anchor.
P2: M8-, 25m. From the ledge, power through the 1 meter roof using bomber hand jams and tools, to a good stance above the roof. Work left and then up into a left-facing corner and the first bolt. Climb up the corner to another roof (#4 Camalot placement). Pass the roof on the right to a second bolt, and then onward to the bolted anchor at the top.
Funemployed required four days of work over three weeks to complete. It's gear all the way except for two bolts on pitch two, installed after a tool popped, a nut pulled, and a near factor 1 fall from high in the corner left me face to face with Aric at the belay