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Routes in 3. Ice Palace

10% Real T WI5
Arjumand's Shroud T WI5 M6
Evil Des Sens T WI4
Funemployed T M8-
Hard Target S M8-
Hidden Gully WI2
High Fidelity T WI4+
Infidelity T M7-
Professional Business Men T M8
Ranxerox Tangent WI4
Remember the Day WI3+
drone attack T,S WI5 M7+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Rone, Aric Fishman. Feb 2017
Page Views: 113 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Feb 25, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


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Description

P1: M7, 40m. Climb to the top of the ice, clip the fixed knifeblade (long runner to reduce rope drag). Traverse about 20' right to flakes and cracks, cranking on pick-bending horizontal tools while stepping from edge to edge. Then climb thin face and maybe some ice to a squeeze chimney, then a nice ledge and bolted anchor.
P2: M8-, 25m. From the ledge, power through the 1 meter roof using bomber hand jams and tools, to a good stance above the roof. Work left and then up into a left-facing corner and the first bolt. Climb up the corner to another roof (#4 Camalot placement). Pass the roof on the right to a second bolt, and then onward to the bolted anchor at the top.

Funemployed required four days of work over three weeks to complete. It's gear all the way except for two bolts on pitch two, installed after a tool popped, a nut pulled, and a near factor 1 fall from high in the corner left me face to face with Aric at the belay

Location

Follow the North Loop trail into the Ice Palace. The route is on the big wall (School House Wall) just past High Fidelity. Turn left toward Hi Fi off the North Loop trail and work your way right along the wall to the base of the obvious steep ice pillar.

Protection

Two bolts, sets of stoppers, C3's, C4's to #4 (doubles #1 and #2). There is a fixed #3 C4 in the roof off the belay (good for you, bummer for me). We rappelled from the top using double 70's, but double 60's might make it, check your ends! If they don't make it, pendulum a bit to your right as you rappel, to get the anchor at the top of P1.

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Nice work Dave and Aric. Very exciting new addition. All gear too. Wow! Mar 11, 2017

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