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Sugarloaf Arete

5.7, Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 13 votes
FA: unknown
Maryland > Sugarloaf Mountain > Middle Earth
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Straight forward and blocky arete, really fun one to hit since your top rope is gonna already be set up next to it


Arete to the right of In Your Head.


standard rack or top rope, sling to boulders at top

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sugarloaf Arete, Black Planet
[Hide Photo] Sugarloaf Arete, Black Planet
about to climb the Black Planet face just right Sugarloaf Arete
[Hide Photo] about to climb the Black Planet face just right Sugarloaf Arete

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Conway Yao
Oakland, CA
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Bad protection for a trad lead. The true start to the route requires standing on a sharp pyramidal boulder before pulling over the overhang onto the main face (in Ryan Kent's photo, at the very bottom of the red dashed line). It's not a difficult boulder problem, but the fall is onto sharp rocks below.

Then on the main face, there's no placement opps until you reach the top of the face and around the left side of the arete Mar 17, 2019