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Sugarloaf Arete

5.7, Trad, TR, 45 ft,  Avg: 2 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
Maryland > Sugarloaf Mountain > Middle Earth
Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details


Straight forward and blocky arete, really fun one to hit since your top rope is gonna already be set up next to it


Arete to the right of In Your Head.


standard rack or top rope, sling to boulders at top

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about to climb the Black Planet face just right Sugarloaf Arete
[Hide Photo] about to climb the Black Planet face just right Sugarloaf Arete
Sugarloaf Arete, Black Planet
[Hide Photo] Sugarloaf Arete, Black Planet

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Conway Yao
Washington, District of Col…
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Bad protection for a trad lead. The true start to the route requires standing on a sharp pyramidal boulder before pulling over the overhang onto the main face (in Ryan Kent's photo, at the very bottom of the red dashed line). It's not a difficult boulder problem, but the fall is onto sharp rocks below.

Then on the main face, there's no placement opps until you reach the top of the face and around the left side of the arete Mar 17, 2019