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Routes in Red Book Point

North Gully + NW ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
NorthWest Ridges T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Book Ridges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
South gully+ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
SouthEast gully+face T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
West side T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, 3100 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 167 total, 19/month
Shared By: kenr on Feb 21, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Great variety of rock situations with fun scrambling sequences and some thoughtful navigation. But ...
one crux sequence much more difficult than the rest of the route which is not avoidable - (and another hard crux which is avoidable).

traverse from South Pass of the Calicos to the Middle Pass -- this route is a link-up of the South gully + ridge route with the reversing of the NorthWest gully + ridge route.
. . (It could be used in a bigger traverse if preceded by the South Calico Ridge route).

route: For the first (south) half of this route, see the description of the South gully + ridge route, which goes from the South Pass to the summit of Red Book Point.
For the second (north) half, take the NorthWest Ridges in the generally downward direction, as follows ...
From the Red Book Point summit, head down the NW ridge about 500 ft, trying to stay on its crest as much as possible.
. . (Bearing off to the left (west side) is a different easier route).
Up and over several interesting protruding rocks or "gendarmes", with some class 5 sequences.
. . (but at least one "gendarme" cannot be crossed over).
Next onto a wide fin between a narrow gully on its right (E) and a wider gully on its left (W). Before this ridge cliffs out, find a spot somewhere around (N36.1571 W115.4350) to get down Left off the fin (4th or easy 5th class) into the west (left) gully, which does down long and deep.
. . . (choosing to descend this gully N would be the interesting "North Gully" route which leads to the Middle Sand Flat -- or could lead back up to this "Ridges" route if just before reaching the sand flat, turn sharp left and go S up the gully.
. . . but instead . . . )

... (Not sure if details of next paragraph are accurate) ...
Step across the gully and traverse W -- going down a short steep slopy narrow gully / wide crack along the way -- to a sub-ridge descending NW. Actually there are 3 sub-ridges separated by narrow gullies. Seems like the east sub-ridge was the most interesting and difficulty (and loses the most vertical), while the west sub-ridge is easier. (Likely one or more of the gullies could also be descended, but this route is supposed to be about ridges).

At the base of the chosen sub-ridge is a gully which rises to the South. Up on rock along L (E) side of this gully to a big boulder (N36.1571 W115.4354) which forms the high point of another gully from the other side. Get onto the big boulder. Climb a little 5.6 sequence to get directly up onto the next ridge, or avoid this by descending NW, then up and around to the W and SW (5th class) to get to there less directly to the SE end (N36.1570 W115.4355) of next ridge.

NW about 160 ft on this ridge: see mushroom boulders ahead. Avoid these, instead turn Left (SW) across gully to SE end (N36.1573 W115.4360) of next ridge. NW about 325 feet on this ridge to reach the Middle Pass (N36.1581 W115.4368).

Alternate second half: If bypassing Calico Peak and going directly to Calico / Tank Pass ...
then shorter to take the North Gully route in the downward direction (S to N), as follows:
From the summit, head down the NW ridge, trying to stay on its crest as much as possible.
. . (Bearing off to the left (west side) is a different easier route).
Up and over several interesting protruding rocks or "gendarmes", with some class 5 sequences.
. . (but at least one "gendarme" cannot be crossed over).
Next onto a wide fin between a narrow gully on its right (E) and a wider gully on its left (W). Look for a spot to get down left off the fin into the west (left) gully.

Down-climb the right (East) side of that gully, with lots of semi-layback moves (5.4) - rather exposed - and sustained without obvious "rest" spot. Below the semi-layback, some thoughtful scrambling down to finish on flat sandy bottom by the Middle Pass.

return: For how to return to parking from the Middle Pass, see directions on the Calico Peaks area description page (under the Pass crossings section).

warning: Many loose rocks and weak breakable hand- and foot-holds on and around this route - (even when the rock plenty dry). The rock becomes especially weak for a couple of days after significant rain or snow, so holds are even more likely to break off.

Location

. . (Might help to find "rbp" on the map).

Start from the South Pass of the Calicos.
. . (So far we only know how to reach his traverse from parking on the East side of the Calicos -- not from west side).
See directions on the Calico Peaks area description page (under the Pass crossings section) -- which also has directions for how to return to the East side of the Calicos from the Middle Pass.

The South Pass could also be reached by first climbing the South Calico Ridge traverse.

Protection

No fixed hardware for anchor or intermediate protection.

Protection for trad leading is unknown.

Photos

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