Type: Trad, 800 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 170 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on Feb 21, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Interesting rock situations with fun scrambling sequences -- at first in a remarkable gully, then up and over protruding rocks and "gendarmes" out on a ridge with continuous big views. The exposure of the climbing up the gully is dramatic and sustained.

connections: This route starts from the "Middle Sand Flat", which connects better with the Calico / Tank Pass (bypassing Calico Peak) or with Calico Basin parking to the SE (outside the Scenic Loop road). To connect with Calico Peak or 2nd Pull-Out parking by way of the "Middle Pass", likely better to use the NorthWest Ridges route.

route: Find the gully up into the north end of the Red Book Point summit ridge
- - > see Photo
Scramble up South into the gully a ways, then a sustained semi-layback (5.4) on its left wall with a deep cleft below. Find a spot to exit left (class 4 or 5) from the gully up onto a wide slabby section of the summit ridge. Work SE up the ridge over (or around) various obstacles - (trying to stay on or close to the crest of the ridge as much as possible) - until reach the summit rock -> see Photo.

descent ... options ...
  • Reverse the route? - (but likely more difficult and scary in downward direction, better if have experience and practice down-climbing class 5 sequences) - See instructions for "Alternate second half" under the second (north) half of the Red Book Ridge traverse route.
... or ...
  • If started from the west side of the Calicos (if the bottom of this route can be reached from there), likely easiest is to take the "West side" route in reverse.
  • If started from the east side of the Calicos, perhaps easiest to reverse the "SouthEast gully + face" route (low class 5, with less dramatic exposure and less sustained climbing than "North gully + ridge" route).

warning: Many loose rocks and weak breakable hand- and foot-holds on and around this route - (even when the rock plenty dry). The rock becomes especially weak for a couple of days after significant rain or snow, so holds are even more likely to break off.


. . (Might help to find "rbp" on the map).

Hike and scramble up to the "Middle Sand Flat" (GPS lat long approx N36.1577 W115.4354).-.(elevation 4325 ft /1320m).
See directions on the Calico Peaks area description page (under the Pass crossings section).


Protection for trad leading is unknown.

No fixed hardware for anchor or intermediate protection.