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Chimaera

WI3- R, Trad, Ice, 275 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Matt Dobbs, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jace Mullen
New York > Adirondacks > Adirondack Ice… > E: Interior Hig… > Panther Gorge

Description

This is one of the more fickle documented lines in the gorge. It lies on a southeastern facing slab so the bottom portion tends to bake quickly and be fairly thin in the best of conditions. As such, the crux is likely pitch one where the rock gear will come in handy. If you're lucky and find fat conditions, it should be a straight-forward climb with an astounding view and option to climb Sorry, Kevin about 50' to the north.

Attain the smear and follow up about 175'-200' and belay. If conditions are thin you may have to get creative. The anchor during the first ascent was a slung outcrop of rock backed up by ice tools in frozen turf. Thereafter, the way should be obvious up fatter ice to a stout tree about 30' back from the top.

Location

Located in the center of the Feline Wall. Agharta is about 100' to the south around the obvious buttress. See Blue Lines 2 for more information on bushwhacking from the Phelps Trail. Rappel from a 10" spruce about 30' up from the top. Rap to an obvious gully on the climber's left for a second short rappel from a thinner tree.

Protection

Rock pro up to 2"/ice screws/a couple short pins.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beta from the first ascent of Chimaera.
[Hide Photo] Beta from the first ascent of Chimaera.