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Alternative Facts

5.11b/c, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Xavier Wasiak, Josh Thompson, Nick Walendziak, Cody Hidler, Matt Carpenter
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 10-Pine Creek C… > Brass Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Thin climbing up a corner with interesting body movement protected by small gear leads to a short thin hands crack that protects well. Continue on the left face and corner past a short run-out to more opportunities for gear. Then head on up to the last obstacle, an awkward left facing corner with good gear in the corner, that deposits you on a ledge. Although there are a couple of rests, the climbing is physical and engaging.

Location

The pitch climbs above the second pitch anchor to No Laughing Matter and Serious Business.

Protection

I took doubles from .3 BD to 2, and a single 3 that was useful for the anchor. I also took metolius 00 to 1, a green alien and a small off-set. I took a set of nuts but not sure if I placed any. Because of a few short run outs, I doubled up on gear at a few points. With the bolts in place, I would image you could cut back by 25-35%. There are now five pro-bolts and a two bolt anchor on the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pretty obvious.
[Hide Photo] Pretty obvious.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] Roughly 10 years ago(?) Josh Thompson and I climbed No Laughing Matter and looked up at a slightly loose looking corner and wondered if it would go. We climbed it, with some falls, and found no fixed gear. I rappelled leaving a couple of nuts as an anchor and also noticed a separate anchor made up of webbing on my right, about 30-40 feet away. The pitch went with gear, with a few falls, but it went and I thought about getting stronger to get it clean. I felt certain, and still do, that someone had already climbed it although there were no signs that it had been climbed. It's just too obvious a pitch. I returned 5 or so years later and climbed it with Nick Walendziak. Again I led it on gear, but fell at two places making my belayer nervous. Some of the falls were cringe-worthy. Again I thought, I have to come back when I'm stronger. Two weeks ago I went back with Cody Hidler and found the pitch bolted. I climbed it clipping bolts and fell at the last difficult section. I was disappointed that it now had 5 pro bolts because I thought they were not needed. I definitely believe that the world is large enough for there to be routes that challenge our minds as much as they challenge our bodies and that climbing without fixed gear is still the ideal. Style matters. I posted on MP about what I had found and within an hour I found out who bolted it and that it had not yet been sent by the equipper. As selfish as it seems, I knew I had to send the pitch in as good a style as I could and that's what I did. I went back with Matt Carpenter and sent it clean without clipping any of the bolts and I did not use the anchors. I don't have any illusions about the fact that others may have climbed it without fixed gear. After all, PVB and Randall Grandstaff were on the FA's of the two pitches below it and I can't believe these guys just decided to stop. Exploring about 30 feet above and to climber's left of the pitch, I found a left behind small hex that I think might have been left to bail off of but there are a couple of different ways to get up there, so I just don’t know. I’ve reached out to PVB to see if he has any information and will gladly give credit to anyone who’s climbed that pitch. I think it’s a cool pitch that folks would enjoy. As far as the bolts, I don’t think they should be there, but I fall short of dictating that they should be removed. Obviously, you can avoid clipping them, as I did. Feb 17, 2017
[Hide Comment] nicely done, Xavier. if there was a 'like' button, I'd click it. Feb 17, 2017
[Hide Comment] If this route was bolted ground up, no hooks, no chalk, and no previewing, would it be ok then? Feb 20, 2017
JF1
Las Vegas
 
[Hide Comment] Might be worth bringing an extra .75 or .5 if trying to skip the bolts.
Skipping bolt #3 is legit, I didn't want it bad enough, nice work Xavier. Cool route worth the time. Nov 28, 2018