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This Nazi Shit Won't Do

5.11+, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 10 votes
FA: Tony Sartin
California > High Desert > Barstow Area > New Jack City > Box Canyon West > Predator Wall > Predator Wall - S Face

Description

Positive edges bring you right under the roof. Clip using an extended draw to reduce rope drag before executing a difficult move pass the crux. Continue on easy terrain before pulling pass a slight bulge right below the anchors

Location

Second line from the right on the south face. Left of easy prey, look for the big flat roof

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchor

About the name

Video

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lance Ranzer
Los Angeles, CA
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Pulling the roof was the crux - right hand on a side-pull/sloper that was polished - made for an extremely hard move over the bulge. No way near an 11b move. Felt like a 12a/b at the very least. Apr 16, 2017
[Hide Comment] “12a/b at the very least.” Doesn’t anybody know how to handjam anymore. I guess you could make it 5.12 if you avoided the obvious crack, but that would make for a silly contrivance to say the least. Mar 7, 2018
Lê Stephen
Long Beach, CA
[Hide Comment] haha. yah. i talked to lena and i told her i jammed it too. not the easiest jam, but it bit when i found the sweet spot Jan 29, 2019