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Routes in Predator Wall - South Face

Bonus Fat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack in the Armor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Easy Prey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hallraker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hero Worship S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mental Block S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Predator, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rainbow Drive S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sex Magik S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sex Predator/Sex Deviant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight Ahead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
This Nazi Shit Won't Do S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vertigo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tony Sartin
Page Views: 150 total · 10/month
Shared By: Brian Chen on Feb 14, 2017 with updates from duh
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

Positive edges bring you right under the roof. Clip using an extended draw to reduce rope drag before executing a difficult move pass the crux. Continue on easy terrain before pulling pass a slight bulge right below the anchors

Location [Edit]

Second line from the right on the south face. Left of easy prey, look for the big flat roof

Protection [Edit]

7 bolts, chain anchor


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Lance Ranzer
Lance Ranzer  
Pulling the roof was the crux - right hand on a side-pull/sloper that was polished - made for an extremely hard move over the bulge. No way near an 11b move. Felt like a 12a/b at the very least. Apr 16, 2017
“12a/b at the very least.” Doesn’t anybody know how to handjam anymore. I guess you could make it 5.12 if you avoided the obvious crack, but that would make for a silly contrivance to say the least. Mar 7, 2018

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