Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tony Sartin
Page Views: 273 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brian Chen on Feb 14, 2017 with updates from duh
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Positive edges bring you right under the roof. Clip using an extended draw to reduce rope drag before executing a difficult move pass the crux. Continue on easy terrain before pulling pass a slight bulge right below the anchors

Location

Second line from the right on the south face. Left of easy prey, look for the big flat roof

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchor

Photos

- No Photos -
Lance Ranzer
  5.12a/b
Lance Ranzer  
  5.12a/b
Pulling the roof was the crux - right hand on a side-pull/sloper that was polished - made for an extremely hard move over the bulge. No way near an 11b move. Felt like a 12a/b at the very least. Apr 16, 2017
“12a/b at the very least.” Doesn’t anybody know how to handjam anymore. I guess you could make it 5.12 if you avoided the obvious crack, but that would make for a silly contrivance to say the least. Mar 7, 2018
Stephen Lê
Long Beach, CA
Stephen Lê   Long Beach, CA
haha. yah. i talked to lena and i told her i jammed it too. not the easiest jam, but it bit when i found the sweet spot Jan 29, 2019