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Monkey Pajamas

5.10a PG13, Sport, 20 ft (6 m),  Avg: 1.6 from 7 votes
FA: Curtis Mai & Todd McCray
Texas > Austin Area > Reimers Ranch > Landfill Wall

Description

Consider a stick clip for first bolt. Do crux move or two getting past first bolt, stay in dihedral, clip second bolt (kind of a reachy clip), then climb to anchor. Pumpy short upper section overhangs quite a bit. Decent but not great anchor. Anchor does not have sport clips as of 2/2017.
PG rating is for potential 'wrecking ball' fall if from above bolt 2.

Location

A shallow dihedral that transitions right into three stepped overhangs. Wall faces north, is under overhang, and was shaded all day in early February - might be shaded all day in summer?

Protection

2 lead bolts w/hangers. Two anchor bolts - one is bolt thru chain, other is bolt w/hanger and one quick link.