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Routes in Kachina Woman

Frito Bandito T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incognito Bandito T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Derek Field, Emma Lodes (Oct 2016)
Page Views: 497 total · 40/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Feb 11, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Incognito Bandito climbs the main crack system on the north face of Kachina Woman before making an exposed traverse around her slender neck. With wild positioning and an interesting crux, it's fun to check out if you've already done the other two routes. The first pitch can be toproped quite easily from the summit rap anchor.

Pitch 1: Climb 4th-class ledges to the base of the main crack system. Find a critical slot for micro-gear (#0 TCU or small nut) before busting your first real move 25 feet off the deck. Cruise up the featured crack with many #1 camalot placements. Stem an airy fingercrack dihedral that goes through two small roofs (crux; protects with tiny cams). Exit right on mud-jugs and mantel up to a two-bolt belay anchor beneath the sombrero.

Pitch 2: Turn left from the belay station and traverse 25 feet (5.7) clockwise around to the east shoulder of the spire. Hidden gear placements. Very exciting! Top out via the original crack (5.7) or spice things up by bouldering the steep juggy face to the right (5.8; protects with small cams in horizontals).

Location

North face of Kachina Woman.

Protection

Single rack to 2"
  • extra TCUs and #1 camalots
single 60m rope

Photos

Dave Spies
Sedona, AZ
  5.10- R
Dave Spies   Sedona, AZ
  5.10- R
Rack Suggestion: Single .1-.75 bd cams and 2 #1 cams plus a few small/med nuts. A 60m rope will get you down.

Safety warning: Falling at the first piece could be catastrophic. If the 000 tcu or .1bd blows out you will fall 25' and then tumble down ledges for another 50+ feet taking your belayer with you. This may warrant an R/X rating for the route. The move is not that hard, just don't fall. A bolt here would be nice for climbers; however, this is a popular tourist "vortex" site and is not a good idea to draw attention to our sport here.

Great route at sunset or in the dark for the incognito climbers out there. May 30, 2017

More About Incognito Bandito

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