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Routes in Oestlicher Mur de Pisciadu

Northeast Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1460 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: D. Zanesco & M. Toretta 1983
Page Views: 42 total, 4/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Feb 10, 2017
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

This is an easy climb suitable for beginners and older children. Pitch (1) starts out easy at maybe 5.2-5.3, with the difficulty increasing to 5.4 as the angle steepens. Belay at fixed piton. Pitch (2) climbs easy rock past two or 3 threaded "Sanduhrs" to another piton belay. (3) continue upward past a series of threads. (4) keep on going by following the threads. Belay at a stance with threaded "Sanduhr." (5) Continue up the rounded buttress passing more threaded protection. Belay at a 2 piton anchor stance. (6) A short crack is followed to a lowere angle grassy portion of the wall, not at all technical. (7) Trudge upwards for ~ 40 meters where the wall again steepens. Belay at a threaded Sanduhr anchor. At this point the difficulty eases to minimal technical stndards for another 3 pitches, using threads and tied off knobs for protection.
Descend over a climbers path to the Pisciadu Hut for some refreshments and follow path # 646 back to the parking area.

Location

From marked path # 646, look for an enormous block near the formation; circle around the left side of this to find the well worn start of the climb.

Protection

All necessary protection is fixed, either bolts/pitons or threaded "Sanduhr" (hourglass) with fixed slings.

Photos

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