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Routes in West Face

Bernal Sanders S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Colonel of Bernal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feel the Bernal S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Filo Noroccidental S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kernal of Bernal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown PdB 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown PdB 2 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown PdB 3 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown PdB 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown PdB 5 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Up or Down Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Sport, 1150 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,198 total · 55/month
Shared By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Feb 7, 2017
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

Arguably the best moderate multipitch in the monolith. It follows the sometimes sharp and aesthetic Northwest ridgeline to the top of the rock. Amazing exposure and vistas!

P1) Follow the line of bolts straight up a slabby face with tiny holds, continue up for a long pitch trending right and following passages in between vegetation until you find a sloping ledge with anchor bolts. The crux is at the first few bolts (5.9, 50m).

P2) Exit the ledge and trend right going around some broken blocks. Look for a line of bolts trending up and right a vertical face, then go slightly left and straight up till you get really close to the upper ridgeline. There's a set of anchors about 15 below a good ledge (5.8, 50m).

P3) Head straight up a very featured slab which has some short vertical sections with great holds. Stay right and below the main ridgeline until you find another set of anchors at the entrance of a wide gully (5.6, 35m).

P4) There's a short vertical wall to the left of the anchors which gives access to the ridgeline proper. A rusty 1/4-inch SMC hanger can be seen in the middle of it. Find the easiest way to climb up it and gain the ridgeline and follow it till you find another set of anchors (5.7, 50m).

P5) Continue on the ridgeline until you find another set of anchors about 40m up. Belay there if you have a 50-60m rope, continue up to a 2nd set of anchors stretching the whole rope if you have a 70m (5.5, 40 or 70m).

P6) Continue on the ridgeline and, depending on where you belayed for the previous pitch, either skip the anchors you'll find at about 30m up and continue for another 20m to a 2nd set of anchors at a giant ledge, OR climb 20m up to said ledge (5.6, 50 or 20m).

P7) Climb up a short vertical face (one move crux) to continue along the ridgeline to a set of anchors at the summit (5.10a, 45m). Enjoy the view!

DESCENT: Follow the summit trail past the altars/cruxes and scramble down a little ways on the Southeast side of the cliff, you'll find a rap anchor at the top of Las Grapas via ferrata. Two 25m rappels get you to a ledge from where you can scramble down to the tourist trail and back to town.

Location

Follow the approach trail as described for the West Face. Once you have reached that side of the monolith, follow a faint trail that trends slightly down and left to the base of a slabby wall that lies on the South side of the Northwest ridge. DO NOT go all the way down to the very base of the ridge, since that's considered an adjacent formation and the route does not start there. You've been warned :)

Protection

15-16 quickdraws.

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