Avg: 3.8 from 19 votes
|Type:||Sport, 1150 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||2,570 total · 69/month|
|Shared By:||Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Feb 7, 2017|
|Admins:||Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Hank Caylor|
P1) Follow the line of bolts straight up a slabby face with tiny holds, continue up for a long pitch trending right and following passages in between vegetation until you find a sloping ledge with anchor bolts. The crux is at the first few bolts (5.9, 50m).
P2) Exit the ledge and trend right going around some broken blocks. Look for a line of bolts trending up and right a vertical face, then go slightly left and straight up till you get really close to the upper ridgeline. There's a set of anchors about 15 below a good ledge (5.8, 50m).
P3) Head straight up a very featured slab which has some short vertical sections with great holds. Stay right and below the main ridgeline until you find another set of anchors at the entrance of a wide gully (5.6, 35m).
P4) There's a short vertical wall to the left of the anchors which gives access to the ridgeline proper. A rusty 1/4-inch SMC hanger can be seen in the middle of it. Find the easiest way to climb up it and gain the ridgeline and follow it till you find another set of anchors (5.7, 50m).
P5) Continue on the ridgeline until you find another set of anchors about 40m up. Belay there if you have a 50-60m rope, continue up to a 2nd set of anchors stretching the whole rope if you have a 70m (5.5, 40 or 70m).
P6) Continue on the ridgeline and, depending on where you belayed for the previous pitch, either skip the anchors you'll find at about 30m up and continue for another 20m to a 2nd set of anchors at a giant ledge, OR climb 20m up to said ledge (5.6, 50 or 20m).
P7) Climb up a short vertical face (one move crux) to continue along the ridgeline to a set of anchors at the summit (5.10a, 45m). Enjoy the view!
DESCENT: Follow the summit trail past the altars/cruxes and scramble down a little ways on the Southeast side of the cliff, you'll find a rap anchor at the top of Las Grapas via ferrata. Two 25m rappels get you to a ledge from where you can scramble down to the tourist trail and back to town.
Here's the coordinates for the base of the climb: 20.750443,-99.947217