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Routes in Little Eiger area - ice

Coors Light Exit Crack T WI3- M3-4
Coors Lite T WI2-3
Mickey's Big Mouth T WI2-3
Project T M6+
Red Stripe WI3+ M1
Type: Trad, Mixed, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 347 total, 33/month
Shared By: John Alcorn on Feb 6, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a drytooling project to the left of the Red Stripe ice flow.

Start on the rock below the dihedral. Continue into the dihedral, and pull easy moves up a flake to a ledge below the overhang. Steinpull on the ledge, and reach above the overhang. Pull the bulge (crux), and work your way to the upper slab. A combination of delicate moves on the face and sidepulling the crack on the right gets you to the top. There is a tree anchor.

Rappel or walk off. This route seems to be seldom climbed and is somewhat chossy. Use caution, and position the belayer appropriately.

Location

This route starts in the same gully as the Red Stripe ice flow, just west of the Little Eiger area. It is less than 100 feet from the road. Start just left of the ice.

Protection

SR. I recommend at least one #3 C4 for the top slab. The crux is somewhat difficult to protect.
TR soloed this route today and saw two fixed pins on the route. The center line up over the overhang looked burly and every bit of M6. I took the left side dihedral that had great hooks and would have taken good gear although it is very chossy. This variation probably goes at M4-5 but was still very fun. Nov 5, 2017
John Alcorn
Boulder, CO
 
John Alcorn   Boulder, CO
 
I submitted a fixed hardware application for this route on 4/28/2017. Apr 28, 2017
John Alcorn
Boulder, CO
 
John Alcorn   Boulder, CO
 
There was tat around the tree up top when I started working this in January 2017. No fixed pins or crampon scratches. Extremely chossy. I'm sure it's been climbed though. Anyone with FA info, please message me. Feb 6, 2017