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Routes in Wilson Peak

NNE Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
NW Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 292 total · 25/month
Shared By: Ryan Marsters on Feb 6, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The NW Ridge on Wilson Peak was frequented by skiers eyeing lines on the NW or NE Face prior to the notorious access restraints imposed by the Silver Pick Mine area landowner. The ridge is direct, exposed, and loose with sustained scrambling. It makes for a fine winter route, though the approach involves either trespassing or avalanche terrain.`

The ridge is about a mile long starting from 12,200 in Silver Pick Basin. The first half consists of mostly Class 2 with the occasional Class 3/4 headwall or notch with fairly obvious route-finding. The first half is commonly bypassed by hiking the NW basin and ascending talus or snow to the ridge just left of a notch on the N Ridge.

The second half of the ridge, beginning at a point around 13,200, is exposed on both sides and extreme care should be taken while considering holds. Expect sustained, knifey scrambling mostly proper and interrupted by one notch (do not descend this without rope) up until the final few hundred feet. The final bit was a snow ridge for us but might be Class 2-3 loose when dry.

Descend the ridge (all seasons), the NE or NW slopes (spring), or the standard route W Ridge to RoA (spring/summer/fall).

Location

Summer: begin at the new RoA trailhead, and hike the trail for a few miles on an easement on private property. Once on the remnant rock glaciers and moraines above treeline in Silver Pick, cut across to the ridge. 2 hrs.

Winter: the RoA road is plowed to about 9,200 feet, and there is room for 2 cars. The standard, legal approach has an extensive avy trap near 11,200 feet on a NE aspect. There are two approaches to the Silver Pick Mill that used to be standard prior to landowner issues: 1) an obvious old road directly to the Mill with potential NW avy spot around 10,800 feet, or 2) a trail leaving the RoA road at 10,200 feet. The latter options cross private property. The landowner is not present in winter, but if choosing to take this approach, respect the property. The road is not frequented, so bring flotation.

Protection

A light alpine rack and 30m rope, depending on comfort.

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