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Routes in Big Snag Wall

Men are Apples, Women are Pears S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Men are from Mars S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Women are from Venus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Kiser and Kammereck 1996
Page Views: 148 total, 14/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Feb 3, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

One of the better 5.8 cracks at Erie, though comparison to the uber-classic Leavenworth splitter is a stretch. Starts steep and bouldery, then rolls over a bit with some smeary footing. The crack width is highly variable, occasionally widening enough for finger or hand jams. The leader might want a nut tool, as this climb seems to collect leaf debris.

Location

Central Big Snag Wall – the obvious continuous seam/crack left of the bolted lines.

Protection

100% gear protected until final chains. A single set of nuts and cams to 3” should do. Placements are adequate, though some are shallow and insecure, so not a great beginner lead.

Photos

Firenze
 
Firenze  
 
Really enjoyed this route.

I'd contend that the pro on this route was pretty good; I felt there were plenty of places for gear, and most of the climb is 5.7 with stable stances offering comfort and time to find the right spot/piece. May 31, 2017
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
 
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
 
GoPro prespective: youtube.com/watch?v=_Yu2k5g… Feb 3, 2017