Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Obsidian Wall

Arizona Ice TR WI3+
Black Rose, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Block Walls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart of Darkness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Negra Prima T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Rump Raisin' T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Traveling Violin Maker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, Ice, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 209 total, 20/month
Shared By: Cory Tallman on Feb 3, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Under the right weather conditions, the perfect amount of freeze/thaw cycles, and some abnormally cold days the waterfall that feeds the Silver Pond will freeze enough to be climbable. The crux is finding the route in this condition.
We had heard rumors of the ice flows at the Forks being climbable (specifically the waterfall at the Gold Pond), so after a weekend of big storms in the Flagstaff area, and a few days to allow the ice to form up, we decided to make the long slog in from the road to check conditions. The worst part about going out for this route is that there's no way to know if it's in or not without hiking the four miles in from the road to see for yourself. (If you're not snowshoeing or postholing, it's probably not in.)
The waterfall at the Gold Pond was flowing freely, which was pretty disappointing to see after making it all the way back. Luckily, we made our way around the canyon to look for any other flows and the piece of ice that covers Black Rose and Heart of Darkness was solid.

A little bit of mixed climbing gets you off the ground and onto the column. After that it's about 60 feet of 90° ice, with one small rest in the middle. Mantle onto the big ledge at the top, and continue up another ten feet of mixed climbing to make your way out of the canyon.

Location

Big piece of ice, north side of canyon, raging waterfall, you can't miss it... unless it's not there.

Protection

Build an anchor on the rim to top rope off of.
The ice was too suspect to consider leading on it. Maybe in other years it comes in better, but I doubt it.

Photos

MacM
Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
MacM   Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
First rule of AZ ice..don't talk about AZ ice. C'mon man! Keep this on the DL!! Haha! Mar 9, 2017