Clarence Darrow
5.12c,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Zachary Lesch-Huie
Tennessee
> Laurel Falls
Access Issue: Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas
Details
Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas.
tnstateparks.com/activities…. This includes Cumberland Trail State Park (Deep Creek, Big Soddy, Buzzard Point, Laurel Falls, Dayton Pocket, Black Mountain and other areas within the park); South Cumberland State Park (Foster Falls and Denny Cove); Fall Creek Falls State Park; and Rocky Fork State Park Once you have registered, you will receive a confirmation email with your unique registration number, site rules, and other helpful info. Please keep the registration number with you while climbing. At some locations, you may be asked to leave a piece of paper with your registration number on your car dashboard. Groups of 10 or more, please call the park prior to filling out a registration.
Description
A left variation off the start of 'Cracker Jack Kid' that follows an obvious splitter crack/seam on face above, to a finish ledge. Climb/boulder first 3 bolts of CJK. Jug a bit left then climb vertical crack/seam to the ledge. Hardest moves are in the CJK start, but a crux move at end of upper crack guards the top. No fixed anchor to rap or lower from so either build anchor before you climb it by getting belayed across ~50' 5th class ledge up top; or go for it and carry extra gear for anchor once you send the thing and pull onto the ledge. Gear for anchor: cams 2",1", 0 and 00 TCU, plus a few small nuts, plus long slings. Do not install any new fixed anchor/bolts, per Cumberland Trail State Park guidelines for the Laurel-Snow area. It's only a little extra work to deal with the anchor, and if you like the line it's worth it.
Location
Far left side of main Laurel Crag; same start as Cracker Jack Kid. See notes on anchor above for descent.
Protection
Mixed. Quickdraws to start, then very light rack of cams from 2"-finger size. Build natural anchor on ledge (see note in description above). Again, do not install any new fixed anchor/bolts, per Cumberland Trail State Park guidelines for the Laurel-Snow area.