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N E Ridge of Pioneer

Name: N E Ridge of Pioneer
Rating: 2.0

5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British A1

Routes in 1. North Faces (from Fairy Meadow)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adamant - North Ridge via Variation of Kaufman Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2 Mod. Snow
	Adamant-Turret-Austerity Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
	Austerity - Std Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2 Steep Snow
	Black Rib, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cycle Mtn Meadow Rest Day T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Direct Northwest Ridge of Outpost T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Horn - SE Face and Unicorn T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Houdini’s Needle "Std" Route & Houdini-Pythias Traverse T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Magog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Mt Austerity - East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow
	N E Ridge of Pioneer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c A1
	North Face Sentinel T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Steep Snow R
	North Peak of Colossal via East Couloir T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 A1
	NW Ridge Quadrant with Rabbit Ears Arete (s) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Outpost to Spire Traverse/ Quadrant Spire T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2+
	Pythias, Damon and Friendship Col T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow
	Sentenel Peak - Shoofly Arete of North Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	W. Face of Quadrant's So. Peak ("Cross-Hall") T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 PG13

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Type:	Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), Grade III
GPS:	51.73467, -117.91557
FA:	R Hall, S Latham, M-J Cross, & T. Russler 1981
Page Views:	800 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Robert Hall on Jan 31, 2017
Admins:	Robert Hall, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

5.7+ / 5.8- A-0 / A-1

This is route #502 in the Jones guidebook.

Take the glacier past Pioneer Pass and swing around to the west side of the buttress. Climb up a snow slope (hopefully still there with glacial recession) to a notch in the ridge.

Follow the ridge all the way. Mostly easy rock, reasonably solid (don't stray too far from the crest) until confronted with an obvious jamcrack.
Up this (5.7 / 5.8 A0/A1) and then on to the top.

Jones indicates there's a slightly easier ( 5.7 "R") but unprotected variant on a face to the left (east) but I don't recall that.

Descend via the East Snowfields route through Friendship Col