All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Selkirk Mountains > The Adamants
N E Ridge of Pioneer
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in The Adamants
|Adamant-Turret-Austerity Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Direct Northwest Ridge of Outpost T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|East Peak of Gothics - "North East" Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Houdini Needle(s) "Std" Route & Houdini-Pythias Traverse T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Iron Man- Gibson/Rohn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Mt Thor - East Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|N E Ridge of Pioneer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c A1|
|NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 A1|
|Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2+|
|South Buttress, Adamant Mountain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|W. Face of Quadrant's So. Peak ("Cross-Hall") T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 PG13|
|West Buttress of the Horn T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1500 ft, Grade III|
|FA:||R Hall, S Latham, M-J Cross, & T. Russler 1981|
|Page Views:||59 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Jan 31, 2017|
Description5.7+ / 5.8- A-0 / A-1
This is route #502 in the Jones guidebook.
Take the glacier past Pioneer Pass and swing around to the west side of the buttress. Climb up a snow slope (hopefully still there with glacial recession) to a notch in the ridge.
Follow the ridge all the way. Mostly easy rock, reasonably solid (don't stray too far from the crest) until confronted with an obvious jamcrack.
Up this (5.7 / 5.8 A0/A1) and then on to the top.
Jones indicates there's a slightly easier ( 5.7 "R") but unprotected variant on a face to the left (east) but I don't recall that.
Descend via the East Snowfields route through Friendship Col