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Routes in Montezuma's Head

Montezuma's Revenge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Northwest Chimney Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ricardo Cabeza T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southwest Face, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Unknown, circa late 1970s
Page Views: 57 total, 5/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Jan 31, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Check with the park for the latest information on climbing and backcountry use. Details

Description

Not much is known about this route, except that there are obvious chimney lines very near to the now defunct southern rappel/descent route. The following description appears to have been done.

Follow The SW Face Route up the yellow ramp, and right to the cave-like formation. Move further right to the base of a steep chimney.

P1) Climb the right facing (E) chimney to a ledge with a belay bolt (same belay as The SW Face Route). 60 ft; 5.8?
P2) Climb straight up the face above, passing two ledges to the mid-height meadow. 30 ft; 5.1
P3) Move left about 200 ft until below a ledge 15 feet up with a saguaro cactus, and directly below a left facing corner system.
P4) Follow one of the cracks or corner systems to the summit of the spire. 100 ft; 5.9?

Location

Follow The SW Face Route up the yellow ramp, and right to the cave-like formation. Move further right to the base of a steep chimney.

Descent:
There used to be a rappel route down the SW face of the spire, but the rock has become too loose to trust. This leaves but one option:
 
1) Downclimb to the two bolts on pitch five of The NW Face Route, and then rappel from there to the traverse ledge with one rope.
2) Reverse the traverse to the bolt and fixed wire. Rappel down to the mid-height meadow with one rope.
3) Scramble down to the north col or reverse the lower portion of The SW Face Route.

Protection

Carry gear to at least a blue Camalot plus shoulder length slings. Bring extra webbing or cord to bolster the rappel anchors.

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