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Routes in Montezuma's Head

Montezuma's Revenge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Northwest Chimney Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ricardo Cabeza T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southwest Face, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 56 total, 5/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Jan 31, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Check with the park for the latest information on climbing and backcountry use. Details

Description

About 100 feet up and to the right (SW) of the north col are a cluster of steep chimneys that are located just above a small cliff band. This route follows one of these chimney/tubes to the mid-height meadow.

P1) Climb one of the chimney/tubes to the meadow (Variation 1). 150 ft; 5.8?
P2) On the NW corner of the tower an obvious ledge system can be seen leading up and left (east). Climb up in the back of an alcove to the ledge, then follow this left past a good ring piton (5.4 traverse move past pin) to another step.  Surmount this (bolt & fixed wire), and continue left to a large, sheltered ledge in a corner (sling thread & Friends in pockets for the belay). 100 ft; 5.4
P3) Move left (east) around the corner into a chimney, then straight up lower angled rock (passing a two bolt anchor) to a shallow right leaning corner and the summit. 150 ft; 5.4

V1 It's possible to avoid the initial chimney/tubes by starting about 100 feet further right at the back of a recess. Climb up to a ledge, then traverse out left past a two bolt anchor to the top of the chimney/tubes (5.4).

Location

About 100 feet up and to the right (SW) of the north col are a cluster of steep chimneys that are located just above a small cliff band. This route follows one of these chimney/tubes to the midheight meadow.

Protection

Carry a rack up to a blue Camalot and shoulder length slings. Bring webbing or cord to bolster the rappel anchors.

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