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Routes in Plus Valley

1st Route S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
2nd Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
3rd Route S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
4th Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
5th Route S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
9th Route S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bhumi S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Bloody Sunday S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deepavali S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
King Kong S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mike's Desire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 5 pitches
FA: NA
Page Views: 130 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jayant Wakode on Jan 31, 2017
Admins: Gokul

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Description

Bhumi. The name comes from the fact the Bhushan and Mike (who bolted the route) had to struggle a lot to clean the route from the very beginning. Bhu+Mi

Pitch 1 (80ft/6a): Easy, balancy moves on slab till 3rd bolt. Rest of the pitch has 6a moves. Precise footwork needed. Shift towards left to reach the 1st station.

Pitch 2 (50ft/6c+): Move towards left, bolts can be easily spotted. After 2 easy clips, there's a crux section. There are two methods to tackle the crux. There is a fairly wide (open hand) under-cling. One can go from left of it(towards the bolt)(6c+ move)or from slightly right side using a tiny flake(6c move). Taller climbers have an advantage as they are able to clip before attempting the crux move. Rest of the pitch has moves ranging 6a-6b. station 2 is above the hump/roof towards right after climbing 20-25 ft past the crux section.

Pitch 3 (50ft/4+): Easy Traverse towards right with 5 bolts to clip. Go around the big block of rock to reach Station 3.

Pitch 4 (70 ft/6b+): Vertical+ Overhanging crack. Starts with a nice vertical hand crack(6a+/6b)for approx. 55ft. Slightly overhanging finger crack approx. 15 ft. Then top out with some high feet moves. Station 4 is in the shape of kitchen sink towards left. Probably the best pitch in the whole climb.

Pitch5 (60ft/6a+): 2-3 relatively harder/scary moves. High feet and knee bar can be used in these sections. There will a point where you may not find the last bolts, climb towards left and not towards right, then you can see the bolts. Very firm tree on the top can be used to set up belay for the follower. Tree is on a near flat ground. One can belay very comfortably.

Location and Approach

Route is located at the centre of plus valley, Opposite the route 'Dhnyaneshwari' at 18.475639,73.408446.Exit the Tamhini ghat road from 18.464977, 73.408982. One can park the car at 18.472841,73.407689 .From the parking location , there is a clear trail which leads down the Plus valley. Approximately 80 ft above the valley floor, there is the start of the route, on the left hand side while descending. One has to find the trail leading the start, it is around 15-20 m traverse. First bolt can be easily found. To get down after finishing the climb, it is recommended not to rappel as the chances of rope getting jammed are high. Instead, carefully go further up the last tree anchor and gradually move up keeping the valley on the left. You can re enter the valley at approx.18.474994, 73.406737; easily find the trail by which you approached in the beginning and hike up again to the parking place.

Protection

Route is completely and nicely bolted. Very firm tree and comfortable belay stand at the top of the climb i.e. end of 5th pitch.

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