Type: Sport, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: François Roux and the UCPA
Page Views: 160 total · 5/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jan 30, 2017
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description

A fun jaunt up good limestone (some polish) on steep terrain.

Pitch 1: start in a shallow left-facing corner crack and work up to steeper face terrain to a ledge. 5.8-ish climbing up fun features on solid rock. Shared belay with Voie des Quarantes.

Pitch 2: face climb up to right then back left up through steep terrain to the top of a large detached flake with a chained rappel/belay anchor above the flake’s top. 5.9.

Pitch 3: Crux pitch up steep vertical wall to a large terrace. Maybe 5.10a/b.

Pitch 4: easy (but exposed!) traverse to the left.

Pitch 5: Fun steep and exposed face climbing. 5.9ish with a chained belay/rappel anchor.

Pitch 6: Up easy (5.7) short wall to the top of the wall.

Great route for a shorter day or in combo with another route on the wall.

Location

Located in front of the big detached block in front of the base of the routes. Kind of climbs up the center of the left side of the formation on a prominent prow.

Route name at base of route.

Hike up a short ways to the trail coming back down to the west. Follow the trail down past some loose scree then traverse back to the base of the route.

Protection

Mostly bolted.

A small selection of cams and nuts could be useful if bolt protection is passed.

Bolted belay anchors with rappel chains at select locations which would be mostly useful with a pair of 60m lead ropes.

Photos

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