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Routes in Lemon Resevoir-Transfermation Buttress

Bunch of Farceholds S,TR M8
El Pero Loco S,TR M5+ PG13
Once We Were Warriors S,TR M7+
One Flew Over The Gooseberry Bush S,TR M6
Rattus Floridus S,TR M5
Type: Sport, TR, Mixed, 70 ft
FA: Steve Elder
Page Views: 106 total · 9/month
Shared By: Steve Elder on Jan 29, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start just left of the chockstone leading to the upper "amphitheater". Currently, this is the farthest right route on the wall. Start with Scottish-style climbing up a groove. This leads to a slightly overhanging, free-standing pillar/face. Climb the pillar on mostly positive holds to a crux at the seventh bolt. It is pumpy.

The anchor can be accessed from the top, but it's a little spicy. You will see the anchor on top of the pillar from the edge of the crag top. Rap from the tree directly above this, and do a tricky little step across to the top of the pillar.

Protection

8 bolts, the anchor is two bolt anchor with chains and quicklink.

Photos

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