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Routes in Area 51

Amoraphobia V3 6A
Cowboys & Indians V3+ 6A+
Jonah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jonah Hex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Security Clearance T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sexual Heeling V3+ 6A+
Singles Awareness Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trail of Tears V1+ 5
Whale, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Kevin Wagoner
Page Views: 216 total, 20/month
Shared By: Michael A Parker on Jan 28, 2017
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

The Whale is a very unique and striking route that starts in the back of a beautiful cave, moves into a roof chimney, then transitions out to the face and finishes up a shallow dihedral. The crux is pulling into the narrow chimney from a hanging start. Once in the chimney, get as high as you can to find a sweet crack that runs along the roof of the chimney that just devours gear. Traverse about 15 feet up and out through the chimney and then transition onto the face. The world opens up as you leave the cave and get onto the cliff face. Easy, but terribly fun climbing awaits you as you cruise your way to the top on good holds through a shallow dihedral. Currently you must top out the route and carefully make your way up a sloping ridge line to get to a tree to build your anchor. I highly recommend both the climber and belayer wear a helmet on this one. Any fall will have the climber pendulum through a narrow chimney and pull the belayer up into a jagged roof.

Once cleaned up and loose rocks removed, I could see this route becoming a 4 star classic. It is truly an inspiring line.

Location

This route starts in the back of a massive cave and climbs the right of 2 obvious, massive crack/chimney systems.

Protection

Standard Rack up to #4. May want doubles of mid size pieces. Tree anchor well back from the face.
Michael A Parker
Tulsa, OK
 
Michael A Parker   Tulsa, OK
 
youtu.be/nd2oUzy530U Feb 7, 2017
Kevin Wagoner
Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
 
Kevin Wagoner   Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
 
Don't rate until you can climb it Wagner Jan 31, 2017
Rob wagner  
 
I was gona climb it.....but they wouldn't let me.....ho hum!!! Jan 29, 2017
Kevin Wagoner
Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
 
Kevin Wagoner   Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
 
The coolest most interesting trad pitch I have done.
Jan 28, 2017