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Routes in Submarine (Steamboat) Rock

Down Periscope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hunt for Red October, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pepperland T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Project 941, aka SuperProw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sergeant Pepper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner & Ivan Cross
Page Views: 502 total, 47/month
Shared By: markguycan on Jan 28, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

I shied away from this tower for a long time after hearing about poor rock quality on the East face but this turned out truly classic. The rock quality is some of the best in Sedona, the moves are super fun, the gear is all there, the views can't be beat, and exposure is incredible!
P1: climb up a few easy ledges to the base of what appears to be a looming chimney(really no chimney moves are required) instead edge out left of a small roof then lieback up a short corner, then stem up to bomber small to big hands crack thru roof(6+ft) -exiting the upper chimney toward the right. 80ft. 5.10a. Belay off gear (many options) and enjoy the view.
P2: climb hand and finger cracks up lower angle rock to 3bolt rap anchor on the HUGE ledge below the final summit block. 50ft. 5.6
Rap to base: 130ft, it may be possible to rap to ledges and downclimb with a 70M.

Location

SW face, look left of some old BoyScout petroglyphs.

Protection

double set to #3, 1 #4optional.

Photos

Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Classic for the exposure and quality of the crux! Use double-length slings on the lower half.
The rappel is more like 120 feet to flat solid ground. Nice new camo chains installed Nov 2017. Single 70m works fine, or even a 60m with some easy downclimbing. Nov 7, 2017
While the rock quality isn't amazing, at least the view and the rope drag are. Mar 29, 2017
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
A long sling or 2 used wisely and there's no reason to do this in 2 pitches.
A 70m rope works perfectly for the rappel, no downclimbing needed.
The quicklinks on the rap anchor are the smallest I've ever seen... Mar 5, 2017
JacobD
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
JacobD   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
What a gem you guys snagged! Beta is spot on. I enjoyed having the #4 for right after the crux. Feb 6, 2017
Hardhat n Hexes
Flagstaff, AZ.
Hardhat n Hexes   Flagstaff, AZ.
It's as good as he says. Great rock, fun moves, not grovely at all. Have your belayer up towards the base of the corner to avoid rope drag. There were not alot of loose rocks to worry about Jan 28, 2017