Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Ben Ferris, Andy Kaufmann & W.L.Putnam Jul 1948
Page Views: 270 total · 11/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jan 27, 2017
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

An interesting, modest climb to a summit with amazing views. Easily combined with an ascent of Pioneer.

From the Pioneer-Gothics col climb the (usually) snow slope up the north/northeast ridge until stopped by a prominent rock step.

Here the original route traverses to the left on slab (snow covered in 1948, ice covered when we did it, possibly rock slab today) Considerable exposure here! (I used a short-thin Lost Arrow for "protection".)

Make the traverse to an obvious crack / chimney in the rock (Variations) and climb this to the top of the step. Continue on easier rock to the summit.

Variations:
1) Climb the face a few feet right of the crack. (5.4)
2) "West Bypass" 5.4 - From belay at base of the step, climb up and right 30-35 ft, then to an overhanging traverse 15-20 ft, then up a chimney.

Protection

Short-thin Lost Arrow piton (or knifeblade), maybe a small assortment of nuts/cams for the crack.

Photos

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