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Routes in Fool's Peak

North Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft
FA: M. Goat
Page Views: 256 total, 24/month
Shared By: Ryan Marsters on Jan 25, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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From the base of the ridge, start on the right/west side at class 3 or any direct line at harder. Scramble up the ridge. At some point, 12,300ish, most spiral around right/west to avoid a big notch. Or continue up to the notch, and enjoy the vantage point. Either rappel 80ish feet, or downscramble right/west and find the key ledge that takes one to the notch saddle. The final headwall ahead is easier than it looks.

The easiest class 2 descent is west to the saddle and back north to rejoin the approach.

If heading East to other peaks, the descent options start to suck. Continuing on to Eagle and Ribbed is a lot of fun, though you need good weather. In general, stay proper or bypass on grassy ledges south. This is perhaps 5.0 using alpine sense. Out and back Ribbed, we descended a crappy talus gully from just north of Eagle to Mystic Island Lake. This really sucked.


Cross the upstream entrance to Lake Charles. Locate a treeless gully due south. A social trail avoids much bushwhacking. Once above the initial cliffs, venture southwest to the base of the ridge.


A light alpine rack if desired and a rope for an optional rappel.