All Strikes. No Balls.
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Routes in Botany Bay a.k.a "The Stadium"
|All Strikes. No Balls. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Around The Horn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Babe Ruthless S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b|
|Chin Music S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Crank Aaron S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Cy Hung S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Grand Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Jose Conflako S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Mayday Malone S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Mickey Mantle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Pete Throws S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Pinch Hitter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Reggie Crackson S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Ryne Sandbag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Slider S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Tug Madraw S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a|
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft|
|Page Views:||275 total, 27/month|
|Shared By:||BBQ on Jan 22, 2017|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
Full Value DescriptionYet another worthy five twelve something climb that every five twelve climber should get on. Shares the same five elevenie first pitch with Around The Horn. As you will recall, most of us experience the first stopper crux of this route at a left leaning tugger/mugger move at the fourth bolt that robs you of good feet when you are terribly pumped. Expect the same deal to go down here. Another pumpy crux awaits after a brief/thin rest that involves using a full value five eleven plus crimper to good feet if ya get em' up just right. Clip at your waist and struggle to manage the pump right up until the very end of the first pitch. Stand on huge feet next to the first set of anchors. This is the best rest on the climb. Be sure to get it all back, take twenty minutes to rest if you need to, now comes the rest of the climb.
And of course, those that wish to commit to All Strikes. No Balls. will inevitably have to commit the the adventurous beginning of pitch two. Enjoy five seven slabbery with a Needles-Style run out. Admit it, many of you have wanted to see someone blow the clip and fall after completing what has been called, "The Second Inning Stretch". It would more than likely be impossible. But it would be hella fun to watch.
Anyway, back to the ball game. After the run out adventure pitch, clip two more bolts in the black belly with longer draws and get ready to run like you are stealing home plate. A slightly different use of the exact same rail that one grabs to do the amazing crux moves of Around The Horn's second pitch puts you onto orange/blonde rock and has you motoring left, left, left. Reach far out left, catch a baseball sized hold with a sharp pyramid top and be sure to match it. It is probably better to be in a position where you make the clip at your right hip after completing a toe roll transition from a left foot heel hook. Keep traversing left on good holds and enjoy the first groin-destroying stem to a drop knee to a knee bar to a jug. Clip a long black chain. Deal with some strange moves that lead to a better pinch -to a deep three finger side pull- that will allow you to get to your feet and cheer.
Stand up on big, slanty slab feet and get ready to sprint across home plate. The final ten feet is very reminiscent of the second stopper pump crux on the first pitch. At this point, ya just gotta go for it, do a drop knee and stem just right and climb outta there on small, good holds to jugs at the open shunt anchor. Clipping a chain to the left of this second anchor allows the climber to continue the adventure through two steep roofs at a climbing grade of very upper five twelve plus to possibly thirteen aye-O.K. holds that end on the anchors of Ty Knob.
Climbs that are variations/extensions of existing classics usually don't win much praise from the fans who crave the nose-bleed seats. However, this climb is well worth your time and is just as classic as any climb in the area. For the grade its is a fun as heck/pumpy huck fest that will have you working so hard that you will not have any extra time to even think about downgrading it. While it might not have a "stopper crux move", like the infamous finger-lock on Pinch Hitter, this climb more than makes up for it with The Stadium-style exposure factor. Steepness, exhilarating climbing and dozens of hard on the go cruxy moves makes this route a full value experience rather than another lap to kill time. The only downside will be its popularity with emerging five twelve weekend warriors that will surely cause long lines to buy a ticket to get into the ball park.