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Routes in El Segundo Piso

Acrofobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Crema de Cacahuate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diedro Negro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dos Burros T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
El Poder No Tiene Limites T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kukus Clan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Hercules T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Paloma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Limites del Poder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (Right Dihedral) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Viaje Magico y Misterioso T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 61 total, 6/month
Shared By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Jan 21, 2017
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

Another classic testpiece at La Coconetla, also a little tricky to protect like the neighboring La Paloma, but with a stiffer grade and a little more sustained. It was originally rated around 5.10c, before the bolts on the upper face were added to make it a direct line to the top (it used to join back to La Paloma after the 2nd crux).

There are two different starts to this route (both equally fun):

1) Start as for La Paloma and continue up the chimney to the top of the pillar.

2) Start as for Kukus Clan and follow the dihedral to the top of the pillar.

Once at the ledge on top of the pillar, you'll find a shallow right facing dihedral with a thin finger crack, follow that, doing a couple airy moves to pass a small roof/bulge (1st crux). The crack ends once over the roof and you should continue straight up a vertical face, passing 3 bolts via a non-obvious sequence on tiny crimps (2nd crux, sustained) till you reach the anchors.

Location

This route is located on the cliff's second tier, about 30 feet above the 1st-pitch anchor of Las Gamuzas. A short 4th Class scramble on ledges will get you there. Find a finger crack that splits an almost vertical face with a small roof at its top.

Bring an extra rope to rappel the route (a doubled 70m rope won't reach the starting ledge). Alternatively, you can traverse a few meters to the right and rappel (w/ a single rope) from the chains at the top of Xochipili to the rap station at the big ledge on top of Kukus Clan and Viaje Magico (do another rappel from there to reach the starting ledge).

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 Camalot (doubles on the finger sizes), nuts and a few quickdraws.

Photos

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