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Routes in Black Tower

"Black Arrow" T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Barrel Roll S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Corkscrew S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Screw Cap V2- 5+ PG13
Sky Raider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Wingman S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Jerry Dodrill, Kurt Jensen, Jared Chaney, 1995
Page Views: 76 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jerry Dodrill on Jan 20, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

Starting at the left side of the tower's base, This trad line climbs features and hollow cracks to the summit. It was the first route done on the cliff, ground up, in 1995 or so. We initially called it "Never Again" because it scared he crap out of us. Today you can climb it a bit more safely by clipping a couple bolts on the route Sky Raider then moving up and right into the cracks and following features between Sky Raider and Wingman.

Location

Start at a large fir tree at the lower left toe of the Black Tower buttress. Climb up the gully through a bush, up features to a series of crack features that ascend the center of Black Tower.

Protection

Gear to 3". Rappel chains on summit, or scramble off and descend to right.

Photos

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Eric Leonard
oakland california
 
Eric Leonard   oakland california
 
Heinous, runout, but an adventure and good training for soloing Apr 2, 2018

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