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Routes in Keyhole Rock

Keyhole Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J.Mw., Brendan Nostrant (1/2016)
Page Views: 131 total, 12/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Jan 14, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

1. Climb up thru the wide crack to a sloping ledge. Angle right at first until you can diagonal back left into a long, left-diagonalling flake/crack system. Clip a bolt as you lieback up to a 2- bolt semi-hanging belay. (5.8 100')

2. Traverse right along the horizontal crack. Head up then right again past a bolt to a thin flake, then up past another bolt into a juggy, steep section. A crack splits the next face above. Climb along that to the right of an old nest and finish in the cracks that break up the face above. It stays steep right to the end. Belay from 2 bolts. (5.9 100')

Location

Park on the Mt. Lemmon Highway, approximately MP 5.8, at the very next drainage after the Molino Canyon Campground turnoff. There is a dirt pullout right before the drainage on the right side of the road. After about a hundred feet up the canyon (Harlan Canyon?) look for the biggest thumb of rock on the left slope , way back by the waterfall. Hike the drainage for about 20-30 minutes until you can cut up the steep slope to the left, just before the big waterfall. The climb starts in a left-facing corner that turns to a crack. This is about 30 feet up left from the oak tree at the lowest toe of the rock.

Protection

Gear: Stoppers, doubles to #2, a #3, and a #4. Tiny cams or Lowe Balls are handy.

Descent: Rap 90' from 2 bolts to the top of pitch 1. Rap 90' to the ground.

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