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Routes in El Cohete Lunar

Banana Frita T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
Objetivo Luna T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ronaldo Franzen y Simone Rodriguez
Page Views: 51 total · 4/month
Shared By: Emmett Lyman on Jan 11, 2017
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description

We bailed just below the top of P1 when the gear ran out turning the huge flake up to the belay ledge. Very dirty climbing led to piss poor gear and insecure runout climbing that we just weren't willing to do for a climb like this. I came up and tried out the narrow chimney as an alternate finish to the pitch, but my partner had concocted a makeshift anchor on pretty poor gear and I didn't want to risk blowing it and killing us both for the glory of a bad climb. Ended up lasso-ing a few chockstones with bail tat and *gently* rapped back to the base.

I recommend sticking to the super classic Objetivo Luna or the somewhat cleaner Las Tretas del Yoga instead of climbing this unless you want spicy, ugly adventure.

Location

Starts up a fairly obvious corner crack system midway between the huge left facing Las Tretas del Yoga corner (to the right) and the big arete where Objetivo Luna begins (to the left).

3 pitches link up with Las Tretas - 4 more to the awesome looking summit block.

Protection

Presumably a standard rack, which we found to be ~doubles to 3 and a single 4 in Frey. Bring bail gear.

Photos

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John Gassel
Boston, MA
John Gassel   Boston, MA
Ohh man, we really should have all hopped on Objetivo Luna. Hopefully this spares someone else some misery though. Jan 11, 2017