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Routes in Bidhiru Kallu

Don't Fall! T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 129 total, 12/month
Shared By: Lone Ranger on Jan 5, 2017
Admins: Gokul

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Description

The route has two cruxes. After a short bushwhacking to get to the start, the first crux is to get on the ledge below the crack. This is a boulder move about 5-6 feet high; delicate, about 6c move. Don't use the loose rock on your left to get up; the rock will fall any moment. And without that it does feel 6b+/6c.

The main, nicer crux is at the start of the crack, the first move from the ledge. Powerful layback-stemming combinations for the first 8 odd feet, after which the route eases drastically, follow the crack for another 20 feet to a low angled belay station.

Exit: Walk across to a sturdy tree about 30 feet to the right and rap off down the clean corner/chimney, and walk back to the start of the route.

Grade: Samiran pulled on a sling to get past the crux on lead and rated the climb around 6c. I followed on a tight belay. We felt this single move is a touch harder than any section of Back for More on Elba Rock, but since it is only a short crux and protection is easy to place, the overall route is no more than an alphabet grade harder (6c?) than Back for More. Others who climb it or know better, pl propose revisions.

Location

The obvious crack; see pics

Protection

You can place a large cam as soon as you haul yourself up on to the ledge, before doing the crux move.

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