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Coronet
5.8 PG13,
Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
FA: Royal Robbins
California
> Southern-Wester…
> Hwy 41: Fresno…
> Shuteye Ridge
> Queen's Throne…
> Queen's Throne
Description
P1, 5.8
Starts with an easy crack and then head right for a balancing 5.8 slab traverse with bolt in the middle for protection. Bolted anchor at end of traverse.
I took a lead fall on the bolt and had the joy of being flipped upside down and hitting my helmet on a pendulum.
P2, 5.5
Up the face past two old bolts to setup a gear anchor in a corner roof.
P3, 5.5
Move up the corner/ roofs and then straight up to a big ledge. Gear anchor on ledge. Bolted anchors on left likely too far for 60m. Plus that rope drag.
P4, 5.7
Starts out knoby and then they disappear for a runout 5.7 slab finish a bolted anchor.
Scramble to the top and walk off NW towards Dreamscape or West down to the return trail.
Location
Locate the big depression in the middle of the queen's throne that leads to a flat roof. Coronet starts in the crack just to the right of this.
Protection
Standard Single Rack to 3.5"
[Hide Photo] Starting up P4 from ledge. Follower in gear anchor near top of P3.
[Hide Photo] View looking down from P2 gear anchor
vista, ca
coronet is an awesome route. Final pitch is a bit run but secure and thrilling May 5, 2020