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Coronet

5.8 PG13, Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Royal Robbins
California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 41: Fresno… > Shuteye Ridge > Queen's Throne… > Queen's Throne

Description

P1, 5.8
Starts with an easy crack and then head right for a balancing 5.8 slab traverse with bolt in the middle for protection. Bolted anchor at end of traverse.

I took a lead fall on the bolt and had the joy of being flipped upside down and hitting my helmet on a pendulum.

P2, 5.5
Up the face past two old bolts to setup a gear anchor in a corner roof.

P3, 5.5
Move up the corner/ roofs and then straight up to a big ledge. Gear anchor on ledge. Bolted anchors on left likely too far for 60m. Plus that rope drag.

P4, 5.7
Starts out knoby and then they disappear for a runout 5.7 slab finish a bolted anchor.

Scramble to the top and walk off NW towards Dreamscape or West down to the return trail.

Location

Locate the big depression in the middle of the queen's throne that leads to a flat roof. Coronet starts in the crack just to the right of this.

Protection

Standard Single Rack to 3.5"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View of start from side-approach.
[Hide Photo] View of start from side-approach.
Friction finish at top of P4
[Hide Photo] Friction finish at top of P4
Starting up P4 from ledge. Follower in gear anchor near top of P3.
[Hide Photo] Starting up P4 from ledge. Follower in gear anchor near top of P3.
View looking down from P2 gear anchor
[Hide Photo] View looking down from P2 gear anchor
Follower on the friction traverse on P1
[Hide Photo] Follower on the friction traverse on P1
First pitch from start
[Hide Photo] First pitch from start

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gary Anderson
vista, ca
[Hide Comment] Climbed the route next to Coronet a few years ago (Scepter) listed in the guide as 5.6. Would not suggest this route for any moderate climber as it has a serious runout on the last pitch. If you fell near the top you would likely die. Nothing is mentioned about this in the guide as they probably haven't done the climb. On the last pitch you climb up knobs on a steep slab getting tie-off's then come across a old 2 bolt anchor from an adjoining route. Do not belay here, they might just hold body weight. From here it's 5.6 smooth friction for about 40 ft. to the anchor. Pretty wild that Robbin's free soloed onsite this line, just doesn't look like it would be that easy. Anyway, just wanted to warn any aspiring leaders as to the seriousness of this last pitch. Also talked to some friends who both soloed this route recently. They both regularly climb 5.12, but one of them couldn't commit to the section above the old anchor. The other finished the route, went back to the car to get a rope to lower to his friend. That probably took 1.5 hrs.....epic! Sep 25, 2019
[Hide Comment] What a crazy story Gary.

coronet is an awesome route. Final pitch is a bit run but secure and thrilling May 5, 2020