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Routes in Southwest Corner

Bat Shit Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Birthday Pickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bolder Problem in Space (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Boulder Problem in the Sky T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Showers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Gig in the Sky T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hanging Gardens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Up for Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lopper, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S.O.S. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shithouse Rat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Under the Big-Top T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vaporizer, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Powder! T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 373 total, 33/month
Shared By: nbrown on Jan 2, 2017
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

Thanks to Tom for rekindling my interest in this wall. Hands down one of the wildest lines of its kind in the area, and very reminiscent of the Fire Wall routes of Moore's Wall.
P-1
Climb the easy starting corner of Boulder Problem in the Sky to the ledge ~40' up and belay on gear. 5.7

P-2
Climb the main Boulder Problem corner about 30' before moving out right on big holds to a weakness trending right. Climb this to a short lieback that turns into an undercling. Follow this feature rightward to a water streak (crux) and move up on powerful underclings and a delicate sidepull (careful pulling on this key hold). A key foot out left makes clipping the bolt in the stemming corner easy. Follow this corner to a stance and belay at bolts. 5.12. See topo for gear beta. Note: You cannot get down from this belay with anything less than a 70m rope.

P-3
Follow the stellar corner up to merge into the free variation finish to Bolder Problem in Space. 5.11b/c

Location

Climbs the amazing steep wall right of Boulder Problem in the Sky

Protection

Mostly bolts on crux pitch. Std rack for pitch 1 and 3.

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
The jaw-dropping exposure on this climb is beyond memorable! This should be on every 5.12 trad climbers list. Non-stop action and aesthetic movement from start to finish will keep you engaged and entertained. Go find out! Apr 27, 2017