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Routes in Lemon Resevoir-Transfermation Buttress

Bunch of Farceholds S,TR M8
El Pero Loco S,TR M5+ PG13
Once We Were Warriors S,TR M7+
One Flew Over The Gooseberry Bush S,TR M6
Rattus Floridus S,TR M5
Type: Sport, TR, Mixed, 80 ft
FA: Steve Elder
Page Views: 118 total, 10/month
Shared By: Steve Elder on Dec 31, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb obvious dihedral to the right of the chimney (Rattus Floridus). The first crux is the slightly overhanging section near the top of the dihedral. Easier climbing follows, then you get a second crux on a slightly overhanging wall. Finish with easier climbing to the anchor (shared with Rattus Floridus).

The anchor is accessible from the top. Hike south and down, then contour around a ledge system about 10' below the top. Keep contouring around until you see two bolts on the small wall to your left. You can use these to get you down to the anchor which is down from the bolt at approximately a 45 degree angle to the north, with a small ledge to stand on.

Originally lead with only 6 bolts. I have added two more to make it more accessible to climbers at this grade.

Protection

6 bolts.

Steve Elder added two bolts to this route 11/1/17, so it is no longer so spicy.

Photos

Steve Elder
Durango
 
Steve Elder   Durango
 
Added two bolts to this route today, so no longer so spicy. 4th bolt is to the right, which is where the route goes, but you'll need a long sling on it. Nov 1, 2017